I'm pretty stoked about the shots I got today
I sorta wish there was someone who could actually see them and know what they are looking at. I've been taking surf photo for over 50 years and this is a rarity beyond rare. Take my word for it. Hahahaha...
You definitely were lucky it looks like there are two opposite directed streams, that causing the wave to crash against each other.
I also can see that it is really windy as the leaves of palms and trees are pushed to side by wind.
Yes. There is a wave coming off the beach - backwash - hitting the incoming wave. I look for this. There are places that you can see it. When the conditions come together. Thanks! :)